This page contains all of the necessary resources for producing a playtest copy of Who’s For Dinner? The game only requires a rulebook and a deck of 64 cards. Four of the cards have a different color back, the other 60 have the same back. Ideally the cards will be printed in color, the rulebook is black and white.
Printing the Sheets:
You basically have three choices for how you will print the cards, duplex (one sheet of paper, two sides), simplex with manual duplexing (print two sheets of paper, stick them together somehow) or simplex with sleeves (print only the fronts) If you will be sleeving the cards, simply print just the All Sheets Front file and skip to the cutting step. It would be handy to have four sleeves with a different color back to them.
You’ll want to print on the sturdiest stock that your printer will handle. I do our Print-On-Demand cards on International Paper’s Carolina 12pt Coated 2-Sides… this isn’t a paper you’ll find in a regular office supply store, nor will most home-level printers handle stock of that thickness. Lots of P-n-P’ers use 110 lb. index found at the office supply store but I’m very fond of Hammermill’s 100 lb. Color Copy Cover. Due to the vagaries of the American paper system 100 lb. cover is actually heavier than 110 lb. index (199 gsm versus 270 gsm for those sensible Europeans in the audience). But the Hammermill paper is highly calendered (highly pressured in the manufacturng process to make a very smoth sheet), so it’s not much thicker than 110lb. index but much sturdier. You might be able to find the Hammermill paper at speciality paper shops or buy a ream of it from a local print-shop.
Print all of the fronts. Then load just the first sheet taking care to position the sheet so that the backs will line up right-side up with the fronts and print the back. That way the Meal Cards should have their special back. You can then print all the other sheets with the generic back file.
Simplex with Manual Duplexing:
Some folks like printing each side on its own sheet of light cardstock, others will print one side on a sheet of regular weight paper and the other side on thicker cardstock. To stick the sheets together, you could print on a full-sheet labelstock, use a Xyron (or equivalent) machine to make one sheet a sticker, or use roll-on or spray-on adhesive. The best method I’ve seen for alignment involves using a surface you can use tape on. Put the two sheets together (back to back like they will glue) and run tape on one of the long edges so that the edge of the paper is stuck to your work surface. Then flip over that sheet and remove the sticker backing/apply the glue then flip the sheet back over — the tape should keep the top sheet in line with the bottom sheet.
There are various cutting methods out there, including using scissors, rotary trimmers, manual stack cutters and even electric/hydraulic guillotine cutters (like what we use for our PoD work). But one of the best ways remains a sharp X-Acto knife and a steel straight-edge. Don’t skimp on either of the adjective there either — you’ll want a sharp blade for quality cuts and a steel edge for safety. I use a printer’s line gauge for my manual cuts, but a steel drafting ruler can be more easily found at big-box art stores like Michael’s and Hobby Lobby.
Line up on the cropmarks and cut from mark to mark. I find that doing the longer cuts first, then coming back for the shorter (vertical) cuts works better for me.
After the cards have been cut, you may want to round corner them for easier handling and shuffling. Many corner-rounders that you’ll find at local stores will do a 1/4 inch (6mm) round corner, but a lot of games use a 1/8 inch (3mm) round corner. The playtest edition of Who’s For Dinner? is designed to look good with either of these sizes. A lot of round corners are some sort of hand-punch, but there are also desktop models available (and even powered cutters for production runs).
After that, the cards are ready and you just need some rules.
Download the rules here. Then print the rules double-sided on your printer. Cut according to the crop marks (solid marks). The fold in the middle so that the front of the rulebook is still face-up. Then fold again so that the front is still face-up. Now all you have to do is read the rules. :)